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Saturday, June 9, 2012

Cedar Project - V10 (guest video)

Here is a short video Jess Firestone shared with me of his ascent of Cedar Project - V10 on the, you guessed it, the Cedar Boulder.  Nice send Jesse!

I'm always interested in promoting the Carver bouldering community, so if anyone has photos or videos they want to share of their victories or defeats in the Carver woods, let me know in the comments or send me an email at carverbouldering gmail com.

Looks like the weather for next week is really starting to shape up so make sure your chalk bag is full and your brushes are in your bag.

Monday, June 4, 2012

Season 2012: Wet & Clean - Update on the Update

Two posts ago I wrote about reclaiming the Ivy Boulder from the English Ivy that gave it its name. This post is an update on that cleaning project.

I was hoping that after the first cleaning and the heavy rain that I would be able to go out and find it fairly clean and ready to climb some problems that haven't been done in a decade.  Instead it was still dirty and seeping a lot of water.  The ivy still on the boulder was holding together an bunch of soil and therefore a lot of draining was happening.

So I trimmed the ivy back over the top of the boulder and made it look all pretty. It is going to need to dry and still have some fine tune cleaning done, but it is mostly ready for fun.

Just leave a comment to this post if you do any problems with potential grade and beta.



Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Season 2012: Wet & Clean - UPDATE

I just got before and after cleaning photos from Andy Traylor, 1st ascensionist of Unearthed, V1 on the Water Tower Boulder, and wanted to share it with you so you can really appreciate the effort. Andy had to set up a top rope anchor in order to clean the top of this large boulder.

Photo used by permission. Copyright 2012 Andrew Traylor.

And here is Unearthed, V1 after cleaning:

Photo used by permission. Copyright 2012 Andrew Traylor.

My last post about Season 2012 also has an 'after cleaning' photo of the Water Tower Boulder. Once again, thanks again to Andy for the cleaning effort and congrats on the FA.

Monday, May 21, 2012

Season 2012: Wet & Clean (Sort of)

It was raining today, which made it a good day to walk the woods at Carver. The only trash I picked up  was a movie ticket stub.  Thanks to everyone for helping to keep the area clean.

I strolled out to the Titlest Boulders and cut back the nettles and brambles that are starting to grow along the trail.  My main reason for heading out there was to check out the condition of the boulders in that group.  I gave a shout out to Andy T. in my last post for cleaning the Water Tower Boulder (at least a large portion of it) back into a climbable condition.  Andy also cleaned and got the first ascent of Problem #17 on page 9 of the guidebook.  This problem is listed as the Water Tower Project in the bouldering guide, but now that it is no longer a project, Andy has named it Unearthed and goes at V1. Sometimes things are projects for the simple reason that no one else was ever motivated to clean it off.

Unearthed starts in the notch just behind the tree and heads up and right to finish just left of the high point on the boulder.

While I was out at the Titlest Group I rough cleaned the top of the right-hand side of the Titlest Boulder. I also cut back the landings around the James Dean and the Quota Boulders.

After that bit of work, it was off to the Bonzai Boulders to pick up any more trash I might find. There wasn't any, which was awesome! I was so stoked I rough cleaned the Ivy Boulder (on the map on page 35). This boulder hasn't been climbable in at least 6 years. There are two problems listed in the guide for this boulder on page 37, College Prep, grade unknown and Shop Class, V2.  Having now cleaned the ivy off this long, low boulder I also suspect there will be a lip traverse that starts the same as College Prep and heads right to finish Shop Class. There is also a little problem that will start under the little roof and move up and over for the exit.

The Ivy Boulder with a lot less ivy than it has been used too.

And after 4 hours of trail maintenance and boulder cleaning, some of it in the rain, I was really sweaty and REALLY DIRTY. My fingers even got dyed the color of my gloves.

So thanks again to everyone for helping to pick up trash, clean boulders and keeping the woods generally friendly.  Don't forget to be a patron of the Stone Cliff Inn every once in a while.  Mr. Rosenbaum has shown us a ton of support by continuing to allow climbing on his property and we should show him some gratitude by enjoying a beverage and some food in his restaurant. The patio does have a great view of the river.

If anyone has Carver photos or videos they would like to share via this blog, let me know and we'll set it up.

Saturday, May 19, 2012

Season 2012: Dry & Green

Mark O. pressing the top out on a fun, awkward, steep & short V2 called Low and Inside.

I know it has been since last season since I've posted here and that is for a couple of reasons:

  1. It is wet in Portland in the Winter and makes it hard to climb outside. Granted this winter was fairly mild and February had some good, crisp weather.
  2. This one is more personal and even almost derailed the publishing of the guidebook - my wife was diagnosed with non-small cell lung cancer, adenocarcinoma, on May, 11 of last year. She is 35 and a non-smoker and you can read more about her situation on her blog, Aquarius Vs. Cancer.
So after a very long year, I got back out to Carver, brushed some holds (OK a lot of holds) and had a fun afternoon in the woods. We cleaned a swath of boulders between the Cedar and Yosemite boulders.  

Climbing in this area also made me realize that I've left at least one problem out of the guidebook (I'm sure there are at least two more). Problem #3 on page 26 is an unnamed V0 near the Yosemite Boulder. There is also a V1 sit start on small crimps to the right of Problem #3. I guess we'll call it Problem #3a. I also cleaned off a problem that isn't in the guide that is probably V1. It is short sit start that climbs up though a slabby notch. If you look at the map on Page 27 of the guidebook, then this problem would be on the end of the Toe Boulder facing the parking lot.

I want to send a shout out to Andy T. who sent me an email several weeks ago. It seems Andy has taken some of his climbing time to clean off the Water Tower Boulder out near the Pioneer Church. I hope to walk out there tomorrow and check it out.

Here is another view of Mark O. on Low and Inside, but looking out towards the parking lot. Alison is standing in front of Problem #3a.

Thank you to everyone who has already bought a copy of the Carver Bouldering Guide. If you still need a guide, you can pick one up at: