Season 2012: Wet & Clean - Update on the Update

Two posts ago I wrote about reclaiming the Ivy Boulder from the English Ivy that gave it its name. This post is an update on that cleaning project.

I was hoping that after the first cleaning and the heavy rain that I would be able to go out and find it fairly clean and ready to climb some problems that haven't been done in a decade.  Instead it was still dirty and seeping a lot of water.  The ivy still on the boulder was holding together an bunch of soil and therefore a lot of draining was happening.

So I trimmed the ivy back over the top of the boulder and made it look all pretty. It is going to need to dry and still have some fine tune cleaning done, but it is mostly ready for fun.

Just leave a comment to this post if you do any problems with potential grade and beta.

Thanks

First Day of Summer

And Carver is still wet. The moss is thick and seeping. It is looking better for the next few days. If you're planning on going out to boulder, take a nylon bristle brush and clean at least one problem in the main woods before you head down to the Bonzai (frontside) boulders looking for drier terrain.

Also be sure you're a member of the Carver Climbing Club and you have your membership card with you - wherever you are in the woods, bouldering or rope climbing.

Thanks from everyone who wants to make sure the access stays open.

The Drake Boulder Is Clean

Went out yesterday afternoon and cleaned the Drake Boulder.

This boulder is next to the circle turnaround to the right of the Stone Cliff Inn. It is part of the Carpet Boulders Group. The problem this boulder is named after, The Drake, is now partially buried by the parking lot, but three other very fun problems still exist (and The Drake could be unearthed).

The problems are, Brakeman V3, Caboose V4 (recently broken hold), Rail Yard V0, Rail Yard Left V4, The Drake V3 (buried).

The photo of Avery on Brakeman is in this post. Caboose would start to the left of her feet (hold now broken, but still enough to start on) and climb into the arete. The other problems are around the corner to the right and exit up the slab which is now clean enough.

Also went out last week and sawed the fallen tree off the Water Tower Boulder, which is part of the Titlest Boulders near the Pioneer Church.

And the Guidebook has been sent to the printers.

Good Luck.

Spencer out

Cleaning at Carver

Climbing in Portland is dirty business. Each year we endure months of rain only to head outside that first dry week to discover that our favorite problem has been reclaimed by moss and dirt.

You now have three options:

1. Come back in a week or two and hope someone else has cleaned it for you and put enough chalk on the holds to make you feel like your back in the gym.

2. Go ahead and climb it dirty in all its epic goodness until you pitch off just before the send because your foot slipped off that dusty edge or you got moss in your eye.

3. Take one for the team and bust out your brush set.

Hopefully you’ve chosen the noble path of helping out the whole community and decided to do some brushing or gardening if the problem has gone more than two seasons without a cleaning.

Before you begin, here are some tools and some tips:

• No wire brushes – The basalt around Portland is soft enough that wire brushing will remove important texture.
• Nylon bristle brushes – These can be old toothbrushes, scrub brushes from under the kitchen sink or fancy brushes from climbing companies like Revolution, Lapis or Metolius. I recommend trimming the bristles down with a pair of scissors to make them a bit more firm.
• Painter’s pole – Attaching a brush to the end of an extendable pole means cleaning more holds from the ground and less time standing on your girlfriend’s shoulders.
• Start from the top – If possible, clean from the top down so you don’t have to clean off the same hold multiple times.
• Broom - Using a broom head for the final bit of cleaning works best to get more of the fine, loose debris off the holds.

Moss removal – Leave the moss alone if it isn’t covering-up anything important.

That should get you started and remember to watch out for loose rock and slugs.

Spencer out