Cedar Project - V10 (guest video)

Here is a short video Jess Firestone shared with me of his ascent of Cedar Project - V10 on the, you guessed it, the Cedar Boulder.  Nice send Jesse!



I'm always interested in promoting the Carver bouldering community, so if anyone has photos or videos they want to share of their victories or defeats in the Carver woods, let me know in the comments or send me an email at carverbouldering gmail com.

Looks like the weather for next week is really starting to shape up so make sure your chalk bag is full and your brushes are in your bag.

Season 2012: Wet & Clean - Update on the Update

Two posts ago I wrote about reclaiming the Ivy Boulder from the English Ivy that gave it its name. This post is an update on that cleaning project.

I was hoping that after the first cleaning and the heavy rain that I would be able to go out and find it fairly clean and ready to climb some problems that haven't been done in a decade.  Instead it was still dirty and seeping a lot of water.  The ivy still on the boulder was holding together an bunch of soil and therefore a lot of draining was happening.

So I trimmed the ivy back over the top of the boulder and made it look all pretty. It is going to need to dry and still have some fine tune cleaning done, but it is mostly ready for fun.

Just leave a comment to this post if you do any problems with potential grade and beta.

Thanks

Season 2012: Wet & Clean - UPDATE

I just got before and after cleaning photos from Andy Traylor, 1st ascensionist of Unearthed, V1 on the Water Tower Boulder, and wanted to share it with you so you can really appreciate the effort. Andy had to set up a top rope anchor in order to clean the top of this large boulder.

Photo used by permission. Copyright 2012 Andrew Traylor.

And here is Unearthed, V1 after cleaning:

Photo used by permission. Copyright 2012 Andrew Traylor.

My last post about Season 2012 also has an 'after cleaning' photo of the Water Tower Boulder. Once again, thanks again to Andy for the cleaning effort and congrats on the FA.

Season 2012: Wet & Clean (Sort of)

It was raining today, which made it a good day to walk the woods at Carver. The only trash I picked up  was a movie ticket stub.  Thanks to everyone for helping to keep the area clean.

I strolled out to the Titlest Boulders and cut back the nettles and brambles that are starting to grow along the trail.  My main reason for heading out there was to check out the condition of the boulders in that group.  I gave a shout out to Andy T. in my last post for cleaning the Water Tower Boulder (at least a large portion of it) back into a climbable condition.  Andy also cleaned and got the first ascent of Problem #17 on page 9 of the guidebook.  This problem is listed as the Water Tower Project in the bouldering guide, but now that it is no longer a project, Andy has named it Unearthed and goes at V1. Sometimes things are projects for the simple reason that no one else was ever motivated to clean it off.

Unearthed starts in the notch just behind the tree and heads up and right to finish just left of the high point on the boulder.

While I was out at the Titlest Group I rough cleaned the top of the right-hand side of the Titlest Boulder. I also cut back the landings around the James Dean and the Quota Boulders.

After that bit of work, it was off to the Bonzai Boulders to pick up any more trash I might find. There wasn't any, which was awesome! I was so stoked I rough cleaned the Ivy Boulder (on the map on page 35). This boulder hasn't been climbable in at least 6 years. There are two problems listed in the guide for this boulder on page 37, College Prep, grade unknown and Shop Class, V2.  Having now cleaned the ivy off this long, low boulder I also suspect there will be a lip traverse that starts the same as College Prep and heads right to finish Shop Class. There is also a little problem that will start under the little roof and move up and over for the exit.

The Ivy Boulder with a lot less ivy than it has been used too.

And after 4 hours of trail maintenance and boulder cleaning, some of it in the rain, I was really sweaty and REALLY DIRTY. My fingers even got dyed the color of my gloves.

So thanks again to everyone for helping to pick up trash, clean boulders and keeping the woods generally friendly.  Don't forget to be a patron of the Stone Cliff Inn every once in a while.  Mr. Rosenbaum has shown us a ton of support by continuing to allow climbing on his property and we should show him some gratitude by enjoying a beverage and some food in his restaurant. The patio does have a great view of the river.

If anyone has Carver photos or videos they would like to share via this blog, let me know and we'll set it up.

Season 2012: Dry & Green

Mark O. pressing the top out on a fun, awkward, steep & short V2 called Low and Inside.

I know it has been since last season since I've posted here and that is for a couple of reasons:

1. It is wet in Portland in the Winter and makes it hard to climb outside. Granted this winter was fairly mild and February had some good, crisp weather.
2. This one is more personal and even almost derailed the publishing of the guidebook - my wife was diagnosed with non-small cell lung cancer, adenocarcinoma, on May, 11 of last year. She is 35 and a non-smoker and you can read more about her situation on her blog, Aquarius Vs. Cancer.

So after a very long year, I got back out to Carver, brushed some holds (OK a lot of holds) and had a fun afternoon in the woods. We cleaned a swath of boulders between the Cedar and Yosemite boulders.  

Climbing in this area also made me realize that I've left at least one problem out of the guidebook (I'm sure there are at least two more). Problem #3 on page 26 is an unnamed V0 near the Yosemite Boulder. There is also a V1 sit start on small crimps to the right of Problem #3. I guess we'll call it Problem #3a. I also cleaned off a problem that isn't in the guide that is probably V1. It is short sit start that climbs up though a slabby notch. If you look at the map on Page 27 of the guidebook, then this problem would be on the end of the Toe Boulder facing the parking lot.

I want to send a shout out to Andy T. who sent me an email several weeks ago. It seems Andy has taken some of his climbing time to clean off the Water Tower Boulder out near the Pioneer Church. I hope to walk out there tomorrow and check it out.

Here is another view of Mark O. on Low and Inside, but looking out towards the parking lot. Alison is standing in front of Problem #3a.

Thank you to everyone who has already bought a copy of the Carver Bouldering Guide. If you still need a guide, you can pick one up at:

• The Stone Cliff Inn (Make sure to go in a have a beer every once in a while)
• The Circuit Bouldering Gym (NE & SW locations)

Flying Squirrel - V6 - Video...OH YEAH!

Mark sending Flying Squirrel in the Columbia Boulders.

Missing Moss

First, to everyone who has already bought a copy of the Carver Bouldering Guide, THANK YOU! That thanks also goes out to the businesses currently selling the guidebook.

• The Stone Cliff Inn (the owners of the restaurant and the property are being very supportive of the guide and the climbing community - go in a have a beer every once in awhile)
• The Circuit Bouldering Gym (NE & SW locations) 

A lot of people feared that a guidebook would cause the woods to be overrun with loud, dirty boulderers. If the past two Sundays are any indication, then those fears are unfounded. Well, OK, we have been getting a little dirty reclaiming some lost problems, but yesterday there were 6 of us total in the woods bouldering between noon and 5:30p.m.

The hand full of us, between climbing some already clean problems, managed to clean off the top to Optimus Prime (V3 - Yosemite Boulder), Emil Muzz (V2 - Dragnet Boulder), Universal Head (V7 - in the Dragnet pit), Joe Friday (V2 - next to the Dragnet Boulder) and last week we partially cleaned Soldering Iron of Justice (V5 - behind the Traffic Boulder) and Chipmunk (V3) and Fox Squirrel (V1) - both of those are on the little boulder left of the Angry Squirrel Boulder.

Thanks to Mark, Mindy, and some others for doing some scrubbing instead of just climbing.

I'll have new photos up in the next post and hopefully some video as well. I'm tweeting @CarverBoulders if you want to follow me there to hear about blog updates, access issues, where guidebooks are available and when I'm planning on being in the woods at Carver next. Hope to see you there.

For Sale: Carver Bouldering Guide - $10.00

Currently the guide is available from me and I'll post on twitter when I'll be out at Carver or other random places with guides available to purchase. The cost is $10 - cash please and exact amounts are always appreciated. I'm also on facebook if you'd like to check in with me there.

I am working on having the guidebook available at the local climbing gyms around PDX.

There are also copies available for sale at the Stone Cliff Inn. They have really tasty food and the views from the outdoor deck are fantastic.

To get a membership card you must FIRST fill out your info on the Carver Climbing Club website and then print out your waiver to take to either ClubSport or the PRG.

Carver Trail Work & Guidebook Release Party!

THAT'S RIGHT THE GUIDEBOOK IS COMING! It will be available first to the folks who come help out with some trail work at Carver on Saturday, July 23. The guide is $10.00 and I take cash only.

Trail work is from 11am - 4pm and then there will be some appetizers and one free drink at the Stone Cliff Inn from 4 - 6pm.

Here's the sweet poster for the Trail Work and the Carver Bouldering Guide Release Party:

No Smoking and Trail Clean-up at Rocky Butte

Attention Carver Climbers and Boulderers: Mr. Rosenbaum has asked us not to smoke (anything) in the woods around the Stone Cliff Inn. He is rightly concerned about someone starting a fire on his property. Please tell anyone you see smoking in the woods about this new rule.

In exchange for your help in protecting the woods from fire, Mr. Rosenbaum has extended the parking use in the lot until 6 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. All climbers and boulderers must exit the property on all days by 9 p.m. or risk having your vehicle locked in and/or towed.

The Rocky Butte Climbers Coalition, in partnership with ODOT and the Access Fund, have 3 trail work and area clean-up days scheduled. If you are planning on heading out there to help, remember to walk all the way down to The Shwingus and do some cleaning over there as well. If you're going to be out there to help-out, leave a comment on which day and hopefully we can meet-up.

Carver Bouldering Guide and in the Meantime

The guidebook is very close. I have 5 sample copies, fresh from the printer, in my possession. There are a few final edits to make along with some paper sourcing to work out.

In the meantime here is a photo of a potential area out in the gorge. I'll have more on this in the future:



Spencer

2011 Season is Starting

Hi Gang,

It has been a long, wet Winter & Spring since my last posting back in August 2010. Not a lot changed on the Carver front over the last several months and so I didn't have much to write about. My non-climbing life has also been very busy, which made it even easier not to write about Carver.

All of that is starting to change as the Season of the Sun has begun to emerge in PDX.

Things I can report:

• Mike Rosenbaum, the property owner, has been happy with the new membership cards and climbers' behavior on his property. Please keep up the good work and relationships.
  If you need a card, visit the Carver Climbing Club website to obtain a waiver and find out more info.
  
• The Carver Climbing Club is planning a trail day this summer. The tentative date is Saturday, July 23 (I'll have more details as they are finalized).
• I have also been given the OK from Mike Rosenbaum to publish the guidebook Jered Bernert and I had ready two years ago. It is going through a final review and a couple of quick updates. I'll let you know when to expect to see them for sale.

I walked the woods about 7 weeks ago and the boulders appeared in good shape, but now that we've had some sun mixed with the rain I imagine the moss and the ferns and the other stuff are growing like mad. The one troubling thing I saw was up at the cliff-line. People have been scratching their names into the cliff with rocks. If you notice people out in the woods who really shouldn't be, please inform the staff of the Stone Cliff Inn.

Check out this older post all about Carver access and rules.

Don't forget your brushes and please be safe.

Spencer

Overview Map of the Carver Bridge Cliff Boulders

So the guidebook is going through a few tweaks/edits to the rules and some grade changes. In the meantime, here is an overview map of the boulder fields out at Carver - you should be able to download/print/etc. It is 11x17 and all of the boulders with problems on them should be shown in Dark Grey. Good luck and if you have questions, please post to the comments.

This map was originally hand-drawn on a very large piece of paper by Jered Bernert and with some help from a friend it was scanned, converted to a JPEG and then I digitized it in Adobe Illustrator and added the other various peices that make a map a map.

If you have specific questions about problems and such, you'll probably have to wait for the guidebook to come out.

Carver Bouldering Overview Map

Trespassers Ye Be Warned!

But first:

• Thank you to everyone who has joined/re-joined the Carver Climbing Club and keeps your membership card with you while you are climbing. The property owners are pleased with how things are going.

• Also a thank you to boulderers who are taking some time to clean some of the moss and other debris off the boulders. The long, wet spring we had has made for a more robust moss crop this summer.

And now:

• If you are using the property without a membership card and refuse to leave when asked by a card carry member, then you risk being charged with trespassing by the Clackamas County Sheriff's Department.

As a member, the process goes like this:

• Inform the climbers of the Membership Card policy and that they cannot use the property without having a card physically with them. If they refuse to leave, please inform the manager of the Stone Cliff Inn who will call the sheriff's department. Try and give the manager as much information about the trespassers as possible (# in the party, car they arrived in, location in the woods, etc.).

Do not get in an altercation with anyone. Be as polite as possible.

Thanks again to everyone who is doing the right things to help ensure that the property stays open to climbing.

First Day of Summer

And Carver is still wet. The moss is thick and seeping. It is looking better for the next few days. If you're planning on going out to boulder, take a nylon bristle brush and clean at least one problem in the main woods before you head down to the Bonzai (frontside) boulders looking for drier terrain.

Also be sure you're a member of the Carver Climbing Club and you have your membership card with you - wherever you are in the woods, bouldering or rope climbing.

Thanks from everyone who wants to make sure the access stays open.

Listen Up.

You must be a member of the Carver Climbing Club to rope climb or boulder at the the Carver Bridge Cliff.

One of the main requirements is being able to show your Carver Climbing Club Membership Card to other members, the land owner or any of the restaraunt staff.

You must have your membership card with you while you are using the property. Don't leave it in your car or forget it at home. You must have it with you. If it's at home I'm going to ask you to go home and get it if you want or keep climbing.

I had to ask three rope climbers to leave and had to get two boulderers to go back to their car to get their cards. It sucks. I know. But it is the only real place to boulder in the PDX metro area and to keep it open you must follow the rules.

Period.

New Members Welcome!

So if you have been a member or want to be a member of the Carver Climbing Club, now is the time to join or renew your membership. The weather is great (today anyway) and the boulders are waiting (bring brushes - the moss is winning).

If you are planning to head out to Carver to boulder (or rope climb) you must have a membership card. To get one you need to be at least 18 and go to the Carver Climbing Club site and follow the instructions. After you get your Member ID # run it by Climb Max Mountaineering or the PRG to get your card.

Then go clean and go crush.

Remember to be nice to anyone you meet. Be prepared to show your membership card. No Dogs. No parking in the lot after 5 p.m. on Friday and Saturdays unless you're going to eat at the Stone Cliff Inn (food is good - a bit pricey, but there is a decent happy hour menu).

I walked the boulder field yesterday and was impressed that I only had to pick-up one very small piece of trash at the cliff-line. So thanks to everyone who pitches in and is doing the right things.

First Day of Spring = First Day of the Season = Cleaning

Met my friend Mindy out at Carver last Saturday, the day it should have been full of climbers, but there were a total of five of us in the woods.

Most things look like shaggy versions of the Incredible Hulk - green, mossy, and rough around the edges. This is the Reggae Recipe Boulder (just below the routes around "Smirk" and "Uncola"):


We cleaned off the Birthday Boulder next to it which holds problems such as "The Birthday Traverse" V5, "Evildoer" V10, "All Smiles" V2 and a couple of others. Most of the problems never got cleaned last year. Set up a couple of flashes and did a mini fashion shoot. Here's one of yours truly on "All Smiles" (the 2nd time; the 1st time by left hand blew and I was able to scrap three knuckles at once).



Remember to check for current access info at the Carver Climbing Club Website.

Shaking Off the Winter

Hello Good Readers,

Sorry it has been awhile since my last post. Since last we spoke the fate of Carver Climbing was in some peril. And even though we have stepped back from the cliff's edge, so to speak, we should continue to use the property as if it could be taken away from us at anytime.

I am meeting with the Carver Climbing Club President this evening and hope to have more info to report soon. There are updates on the Carver Climbing Club site which are good and important.

Until later, but not as later as this post was.

Hello Reel Rock Tour

Thanks for stopping by and checking out the blog. The season is wrapping up, but if you are a Carver Climbing Club member there will be a few days/weeks over the winter. Stay tuned. I am working on a Twilight the movie circuit.

Spencer